If you are thinking of studying dog training, but you need one last push to make up your mind, you have come to the right place. In this post, we are going to give you some reasons to make your dream of working with dogs come true.
Why study dog training?
If you are passionate about animal behavior and, in particular, you want to know the reasons for their behavior, here are some reasons why you should study dog training. Take note:
Training at your own pace
You don’t start building a house from the roof, right? The same thing happens when you want to be a dog trainer. To acquire a good knowledge base, it is essential to train through a specialized degree, such as the online master’s degree in dog training from Escuela Des Arts. However, currently, in Spain, there is no official qualification for being a dog trainer.
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The great advantage of studying with us is the flexibility in study times, as you will be responsible for organizing and adapting the training to your routine. Of course, from the first moment, you will have the support and monitoring of an expert tutor in the subject and provide you with a series of extra materials to complete your training.
Personally rewarding work
Another compelling reason to become a dog trainer is that this profession is gratifying on a personal level. Being in daily contact with dogs, helping them improve their skills, and treating and teaching their owners are, without a doubt, great motivations.
Or if you prefer, you can end up training police dogs specialized in drug detection, defense, human rescue, or training guide dogs or dogs for assisted therapies.
The professional sector is in constant demand
It is nothing new that the Spanish labor market is constantly changing. And although changes can be scary, they are often the source of new opportunities.
Looking back, we were not so aware of animal welfare as a society. Although we still have a long way to go, today we are more aware of the responsibilities of having a dog, as it is not only about their food but also their health, psychological well-being, and education.
This is why studying dog training opens the doors to a highly sought-after profession, as more and more households are deciding to expand their family by acquiring or adopting a dog. And with it, everything that is involved in making the coexistence between people and dogs the best possible.
Various career opportunities and career paths
Being a dog trainer means being able to work on your own, offering these services to several individuals and/or companies at the same time. You can also work as an employee, as an assistant professional in veterinary clinics, dog grooming salons, or in companies specializing in dog training that offer dog training services.
Dog shelters or animal shelters, pet supply stores, and kennels are other opportunities offered by the dog training profession.
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Flexible hours and conciliation
Last but not least, the job of a dog trainer offers great flexibility in terms of hours, as you have to adapt to the clients’ schedules and this allows you to balance work with your personal life, and you may even have other complementary occupations.
Trainer or self-study?
Both methods have advantages. Consult a trainer if you are an inexperienced owner, disorganized, or too soft-natured.
Instructor:
They save your time, nerves, and energy;
will study regularly;
will achieve results in any case;
thy issue a certificate of passing the OKD standard.
If you don’t need a piece of paper, have a lot of time, are well-organized, and have the character to get the necessary actions from your furry “student” – work independently. Pros:
saving time and money;
classes take place in an environment that is familiar to the animal;
he develops and strengthens contact exclusively with you, and not with a stranger.
Don’t listen to those who say that “it is not necessary to train decorative breeds.” This is required for individuals of any breed. It is also a misconception that adult dogs cannot be trained – it is just that the process will be more difficult, because the character has already been formed, along with bad habits – for example, not obeying the owner. You will need regularity, strictness, and patience. And you will achieve success.
How to teach
Start training in a familiar and quiet corner – without distractions (people, cars, other animals). If you find a suitable but unfamiliar place, let the “student” explore it first. Do not practice:
immediately after waking up;
after a heavy meal;
during the day on hot days – especially if the dog is “furry”;
in severe frosts, if the dog is smooth-haired and freezes quickly.
In hot weather, take water with you – avoid overheating and heat stroke. Always bring treats to training for encouragement (according to your pet’s preferences). You can also encourage with your voice, a gentle touch – but both the treat, the voice, and the affection should immediately follow the correctly performed action.
The main principles of independent training:
Command the dog to give a paw
Exercise regularly, gradually increasing the duration of the sessions. Start with 15 minutes. Working longer than 40 minutes to an hour is pointless in most cases, the “student” gets tired and loses concentration. The exception is individuals of certain service breeds and active temperaments: for example, some shepherds are ready to work even a full day, and they like it.
Initial training is in a familiar area; when the dog gets used to the training, the location can and should be changed.
Pronounce commands clearly; for encouraging words, change the intonation to a softer one.
Try not to repeat your request more than 2 times, and when the skill is mastered – more than 1.
Don’t command unless the trainee’s attention is focused on you. Call him by his name.
Reward for success.
It is strongly discouraged to raise your voice or otherwise show negative emotions – make sudden movements, tug on the leash, hit. You don’t want to get a neurasthenic friend who is afraid of your every move, do you?
Features of training
With a puppy, it is acceptable to conduct training in a playful, then semi-playful manner. With adult dogs, a serious, working approach works better: come – we train. During training, take breaks for 5-10 minutes, the “student” needs rest, let him run freely. Choose the right treat (he should like it). During the training process, communicate with your pet, but make sure that the commands do not “merge” with normal communication, and change the intonation.
Inventory
A basic set of necessary items:
collar (regular, “choke” type is not put on babies and teenagers, and it is used when training too “heavy”, uncontrollable or not controlling their strength adults);
leash – long up to 12 m and short – up to 1.5;
muzzle and lead with a retainer (for adults);
bag for “incentive prizes”.
A dumbbell for retrieving is convenient, but at the first stage it is not essential – it is even better if you teach the dog to bring not a specific object, but different ones.
Toys such as a puller, a rope, and a ball will also come in handy during classes.
Basic training
Start by teaching your puppy to respond to his name and run to you. By adding the command “Come to me”, you can practice it very well, almost unnoticed by the trainee. Nuances:
if “Come to me” is said, make sure that what is required is done. If the puppy gets distracted during the process – their attention, like all children, is unstable – attract its attention. For example, pretend that you are leaving, show a toy;
rewards for performance are mandatory;
gradually increase the distance;
then train the skill in “no visibility” conditions: let the dog not see you, but hear “Come to me” and follow the command.
Never call a dog if you intend to punish it or perform some unpleasant actions for it (veterinary, hygienic manipulations)!
Once you have worked out “Come to Me” perfectly, proceed to the next steps.
“Sit”
A necessary skill! If it is practiced to the point of automatism, it turns out to be extremely useful in critical situations. It is this command – listen to experienced trainers – that stops an animal about to cross a busy road and even interrupts dog fights.
To make training easier, watch your puppy and say “Sit” when you notice he is ready to sit. Praise and reward.
You can train with or without a short leash. You will need a treat: show it and raise it above its head, say “Sit” and press on the puppy’s rump, forcing it to sit. When using a leash, pull it slightly upwards at the moment of pressing. Give the treat when the dog sits. Usually, the skill is mastered quickly and easily.
“Lie”
The command is useful in many situations – you can take your dog to visit or on a trip, why should it wait for you for a long time in a sitting position? It is more comfortable to lie down.
After “Sit” and execution, we command “Lie down”, pull the leash down, and press lightly on the withers. Do not press! And we make sure that the animal lies down in the pose of a lying Egyptian sphinx – not on its side, not belly up.
“Stand”
The skill will come in handy when you need to comb the fur or put on the harness, or clothes. But it is difficult to work it out with a fidgety and active puppy up to 6 months. It is possible later. Algorithm:
“Sit”.
Use your voice to command “Stand”, while simultaneously grabbing the dog from the right side under the belly and lifting it to its feet.
Reward if you stand still.
Be patient – many animals do not “stand” at first, but do all sorts of things.
“Place”
Even if the tailed resident moves freely around the house and settles down to rest wherever it is convenient, it is necessary to work out the “Place” to be able to send the animal there if its presence bothers you or others (the arrival of guests, employees of various service departments, repairs, the dog spinning around in the kitchen while cooking, etc.). The place should be comfortable for it and not be in the passage. We train:
They bring the puppy to the mattress (rug), show him a treat, and place him in his “place”, allowing him to eat it.
This takes the pet a short distance, say “Place” and let go. If he does not understand you, we help him get to the desired point and hold him there for a short while, treating him with a treat.
We repeat, no longer helping.
Gradually increase the distance, then command from another location in the house. Be sure to teach him not to just “check-in” by running onto the mat and then leaving it, but to stay there until you call him. Patience will be required.
“Near”
Like “Come”, the skill of walking next to the owner guarantees controllability in street conditions, so it is certainly necessary. In case of perfect master of this skill, you will significantly expand the range of locations that you can visit without parting with your pet – walk around the whole city, calmly visit public places and even certain events, if presence in the company of four-legged pets is not prohibited at them. “Next to” will insure you against many potential troubles and threats during walks.
It is not recommended to practice this skill at the beginning of a walk until the animal has run and played enough – it will be drawn to freedom, and the energy seeking an outlet will not allow it to concentrate on serious work. It is optimal to first practice “Nearby”, already heading home, when your friend is already slightly tired and does not want to explore the surroundings. Algorithm:
Command to the dog nearby
use a short leash. Moving at a moderate pace, hold the pet by the left leg (the leash should hang slightly) and command: “Heel”;
we don’t let the dog change its trajectory of movement, we correct it with a leash – without jerking, rather by tension;
if the dog tries to pull or rush to the side, stop completely. He must learn that these are useless actions. Return to the leg, repeat: “Next to”, go;
if it works, we start changing the tempo. We speed up our pace, we run. We follow the parallel movement of the “partner”, we do not allow deviations from it;
In the final stage, we practice movement without a leash.
Keep in mind that there are breeds that have considerable strength and irrepressible energy – they need to be seriously loaded on walks. Otherwise, they become “pullers”: they calmly push forward with unstoppable force, dragging their owners along. This can be characteristic of powerful Rottweilers, and seemingly small and lightweight Staffords and Pit Bulls. If you cannot teach such a “puller” to move alongside you until adulthood, this will need to be done with the help of an instructor and a choke collar.
“Ugh”
This command or its analogs (“No”, “No”, “Stop”) also refers to the necessary ones: it forces you to stop unwanted actions. It is permissible to work on it for two months, especially for serious (in size and temperament) breeds. Learn to predict the “harmful” actions of the dog – at this moment, sharply tug the leash and pronounce the selected version of the command. Praise and encourage for stopping unwanted behavior: the animal must understand that it is more profitable for it to follow the order than to ignore it. Punish for failure to comply – with a stern tone, unwillingness to play.
And be sure to remember: “Ugh” is forever. And not “yesterday you can’t, today you can.”
“Quiet” and “Voice”
Many dogs, regardless of breed, instinctively guard their territory – but often too diligently, reacting to any minor noise in the entrance or on the street. In addition, for representatives of certain breeds with a choleric temperament, it is typical (with a lack of training) to turn into a “bell”: in response to any irritant, the dog starts barking. This is inconvenient, it naturally irritates both the owner and those around him. And often it is simply harmful: what if there is a baby at home? Or an elderly unhealthy person who needs peace? Or are you tired and want to rest peacefully without unnecessary noise?
Practice the correct response to “Quiet”: distract the “speaker”, and reward when the barking stops. Gradually move from treats to verbal encouragement: many dogs are extremely smart and can start to quarrel in order to shut up on command and earn a treat.
The opposite command, “Voice,” is reinforced this way: give it when the puppy starts barking. You can also tease it a little with a treat, achieving a demanding bark.
Alternate between “Quiet” and “Voice”, pets, as a rule, quickly learn the difference between the requirements and learn to fulfill both.
“Give me your paw”
According to many, especially practical, dog owners, this command is not included in the list of mandatory ones. It is just funny. But in reality, there are no optional ones: performing any actions that are not initially characteristic of the dog develops its intellectual abilities and promotes socialization. If you want, you can teach it even circus tricks – the more skills it masters, the smarter it will be.
In addition, “Give me a paw” is performed in conjunction with “Sit”.
Show the sitting dog a treat, but do not give it to him – he will reach for it with his muzzle and, perhaps, try to get it with his paw. At this point, we give the command, take his paw in our hand, and hold it for a short time. If the dog does not use his paw in an attempt to get the treat, simply lift his paw from the floor with our hand, accompanying this action with the command. We give the reward.
Usually, dogs are willing to learn this simple trick and perform it with pleasure. You can complicate the task: “Right!”, “Left!”.
“Fetch”
The skill of delivering a thrown object to the owner is useful if the dog is very active – if he works well on a walk, he will behave more calmly at home. Having mastered “Come” and “Sit”, proceed to retrieve. Stages:
Command fetch for dog
we command: “Sit”, we show the retrieval object (favorite toy, stick);
when the puppy is interested in the object, we throw it – not far at first – and command: “Fetch!”;
we point in the direction with our hand (usually the dog can see where the thrown object fell and runs towards it without fail);
seeing that the object is in the dog’s mouth, we call: “Come to me.” He does so – “Sit.”
It is important to teach the dog to give you the object on demand: “Give”. Do not support the pet’s desire not to give the fetch – the puppy will try to play with you without giving what he brought. Do not command: “Give the fetch”, it turns out “Give-hold”, you will confuse the dog.
Please note: it is more difficult to train adult dogs to retrieve, so start early.
Learning Mistakes and Helpful Tips
Inexperienced trainers often:
hurry and get irritated if the dog does not “catch” the skill instantly. Keep in mind that it is not a person, it is more difficult for it. Also take into account the breed and temperament: some breeds think and “swing” more slowly than others. You cannot demand the speed of an East European Shepherd from a Central Asian Shepherd;
try to teach ten skills at once. Learn the rule: one command is practiced until it becomes automatic — and only after that we start practicing the next one;
exhaust the “student” with too much training. You can’t work through force, especially if the puppy is learning, you will instill in him an aversion to work.
Tips from professional trainers:
Any command other than “Heel” is not repeated. Repeating “Come” 30 times is not only useless but harmful – you are teaching your pet to perceive your speech as background sound. Achieve compliance the first time.
Reward every correct response.
After “Come to me” you cannot punish, even if the dog came for an hour or did something while running free.
Do it for a short time, but every day.
Do not put corrective equipment on puppies. Only after 12 months.
And an extremely important point: make the training process part of the pet’s socialization. Achieve the execution of already learned commands in a new, unfamiliar environment – if you train exclusively in quiet and calm corners, the skills will be useless as soon as the dog gets to an unfamiliar location. Gradually accustom it to work in places where there are distractions – a well-trained dog should perform its tasks without reacting to passers-by, relatives, cats, cars, and other vehicles.
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